Arriving in Thailand brought a wave of calm, a rush of nostalgia, and a deep exhale for mind, body and soul. After months of mountain trails and busy cities, we swapped hiking boots for sandy feet and turquoise waters, committing to a full month of island life across three different spots. We’d had such a full-on year that doing absolutely nothing felt wildly appealing… but would island fever creep in?
Part two shifted gears again — daily step counts climbed, hiking mode was reactivated, and we closed our year of adventure with a bang. Bangkok’s electric chaos, trekking in Chiang Rai, and activity-packed days in Chiang Mai made sure of that.
Ko Libong: Slow Living, Sea Air & Serendipity
Ko Libong isn’t postcard-famous Thailand — and that’s exactly why we chose it. Known as a “working island” with a traditional Muslim fishing community, it has little tourist infrastructure and very few visitors.
We arrived from Krabi by longtail boat just as the last streaks of sunset faded, then bumped along in a songthaew to our hotel. Physically we’d travelled a short distance; mentally we’d time-travelled back to our early-2000s backpacker days — only this time with fewer people and no luggage tied precariously to the roof.
Life at Andalay Beach Resort unfolded at the perfect, gentle pace. Mornings meant yoga on our terrace, hilly sweat-drenched runs on deserted roads, and long swims in warm, glassy water. After months of disrupted routines, it felt amazing to move properly again.
Afternoons were for reading, long chats, fruit smoothies (we worked steadily through the menu), and plenty of retirement-planning conversations. Evenings meant barefoot walks along the sand at sunset, dodging scuttling crabs, followed by spicy seafood dinners in the sand-floored restaurant with the sea just metres away.
The island’s daily call to prayer became part of our soundtrack. Monty the resident monitor lizard made his regular appearances, as did the mosquitoes, and we quickly settled into island rhythms.
We befriended Lisa and Lee, an American couple who have lived nomadically for 10 years. Hearing about their lifestyle fascinated us. Travelling for months at a time still feels more “us” than years, but it was inspiring to talk to people who’d fully committed to an unconventional life.
A snorkelling trip to Ko Kradan was a highlight. As our longtail sliced through calm, shimmering water I felt an exhilarating sense of freedom — Lee Ann, less so thanks to mild seasickness. Underwater, shoals of fish darted like living confetti. The reality check came when I sliced my foot on coral and Lee Ann got stung by jellyfish larvae. Travel isn’t always filtered and flawless.
Our only other outing was a cycle to the village on bikes that had clearly lived full lives already. Broken gears plus steep hills plus tropical heat = unexpected interval training.
The staff at Andalay were extraordinary — adjusting spice levels, timing eggs to the minute, sourcing us new yoga mats, tending my ankle, providing seasickness tablets, and even treating us to our final meal on the house at the best table in the restaurant. Thai hospitality at its absolute finest.
Ko Jum: Heat, Headspace & Perspective
Leaving Libong was emotional, especially knowing we’d miss that warmth and care. We took the Tigerline ferry via Ko Lanta, with Lee Ann happily spaced out on motion-sickness meds.
Oon Lee Bungalows on Ko Jum was remote in a different way — reached by a 20-minute ride, half of it along a bone rattling dirt track. Beautiful, quiet, but slightly claustrophobic after a few days. My ankle still wasn’t healed, running was dusty, clammy, and frustrating, and the heat was relentless. I had a wobble — that pent-up “I just want to MOVE” frustration spilling over.
We adapted: beach workouts, yoga sessions, and researching gyms on Ko Lanta.
After that wee blip we settled into a new routine. Mornings were spent exercising and blogging, and afternoons were spent cooling down in our air conned room, watching the monkeys flit from tree to tree. . At sunset we’d sit with drinks overlooking Koh Phi Phi as the sky turned pink and orange, reflecting on the fact we’d both visited those islands independently 20 years ago — before we even knew each other existed, before we had any idea of how our lives would pan out.
A boat trip to Maya Bay and Bamboo Island provided more than just stunning scenery. Our group set off excited by the prospect of some excellent snorkelling opportunities, only for our boat to break down mid-journey. What could have been a stressful ordeal turned into a bonding experience, as we attempted to eat our lunch of fried rice and a plastic bag of broth as the boat bobbed and swayed on the not-so-small waves while awaiting rescue. The unpredictability was a reminder of travel’s lessons: patience, adaptability, and taking everything in your stride.
Snorkelling around these islands was breathtaking – clear waters, intricate coral gardens, and moments of absolute peace as we floated, suspended between sky and sea. At points we were completely surrounded by blue and yellow Sargent major fish and swam through them hand in hand. Just incredible. Revisiting Maya Bay (where The Beach was filmed) 20 years on was an eye-opener. So many boats, so many people, but still utterly stunning. Swimming with the fish in crystal clear water towards a tiny white-sand beach was simply Devine.
By the end of our time on Ko Jum I was able to go back in the sea. A post-workout dip in the sea was bliss. I’d well and truly put to bed my feelings of frustration, replaced with pure gratitude of being in such a beautiful, tranquil environment.
Ko Lanta: Fitness, Festivities & Human Connection
Ko Lanta brought a different energy — markets, restaurants, and a festive buzz for Christmas and New Year.
The beach became our treadmill, yoga mat, and swimming pool beneath circling sea eagles. I tried Hyrox sessions at Fit On Lanta gym — tough, sweaty, and strangely addictive.
My gym partner turned out to be a fellow breast cancer survivor. Our honest chats about rebuilding fitness and navigating medication side effects were unexpectedly comforting — proof that shared stories find you anywhere.
I fell well and truly back in love with running again, opting for early morning jaunts along the sand listening to my favourite trance music – endorphin overload! And we both enjoyed group yoga sessions with some mediation to the sounds of the waves lapping nearby.
Food-wise, healthy eating was effortless — smoothie bowls, Thai salads, grilled seafood. When the heat peaked, we retreated to an air-conditioned Swedish café (Ko Lanta has a surprisingly large Swedish community, including schools).
Christmas Day snorkelling at Ko Rok and Ko Haa was pure paradise — Massaman curry under palm trees and the most vibrant coral we’d seen: blues, golds, purples, surrounded by blue starfish, water snakes, eels, parrot fish, angel fish and more. Chilling on the white sand, gazing at the crystal clear sea felt like a living postcard.
Boxing Day brought reminders of the tsumami that devastated the nearby areas back in 2004. I’d narrowly missed it, being on Ko Phi Phi a month earlier than originally planned following the decision to attend the November Full Moon Party on neighbouring Ko Phang Ngan rather than Decembers. A poignant reminder of the butterfly effect.
We welcomed the New Year with beach fireworks, then danced under the stars fuelled by late-night coffee — sweaty, happy, hopeful. My 2025 word was EXPLORE (nailed it). 2026 will be FOCUS.
Bangkok: Chaos, Culture & Changing Times
From island calm to Chinatown chaos. Our friend Shaun joined us for the final two weeks.
With just 42 hours, we dove straight in: sunset at Song Wat Road, riverside views, rooftop drinks as the skyline glittered.
Next day: hipster brunch (peanut butter soy latte for me, spicy mushroom bowl for Lee Ann), elephant trousers purchased (XXXL tax applied - I'm not built for Thai sizes), and Wat Traimit’s solid gold Buddha.
We explored Talat Noi’s street art, sipped experimental drinks at Hong Sieng Kong café, then took the local express boat (not overpriced longtails) to a flower market and Wat Pho’s giant reclining Buddha. Lunch was crab noodles at humble Boonlert - an excellent find off the beaten track.
Evening: Muay Thai at Rajadamnern Stadium, then a wild tuk tuk ride to Khao San Road. Both of us had stayed there over 20 years ago — now pedestrianised, louder, brasher, more nightlife strip than backpacker hub. A sign of changing times, mass tourism & the impact of social media… but everything changes and times move on. We’ll remember Khao San road as the messy, scruffy place it once was and be grateful we experienced it when we did.
Chiang Rai & Jungle Trekking
Arriving in Northern Thailand brought all the anticipation of a new adventure, an undiscovered place for all of us. We checked into our traditional wooden house, got the washing on, and then headed out for some food. We braved it and headed into a street-side restaurant with the menu all in Thai. We were quickly tucking into some very tasty and very cheap crab noodles. Earlier in the trip Lee Ann and I would have been unlikely to brave a place like this but turns out its pretty fun stepping away from the tourist traps.
We hit the Sunday Night market which was a feast for all the senses – stalls of unusual foods, garish drinks, karaoke, line dancing and children playing. We soaked it all in, Shaun doing better with the local delicacies than us (we opted for a baked potato to start). I did attempt a crispy fish salad but needed guidance from an old Thai lady sat beside me on how to actually eat it. A lot of hand gestures to get through the language barrier and I think I mastered it.
A guided day tour ticked off the White Temple, Blue Temple, Big Buddha, Skywalk, Golden Triangle, Opium Museum, and khao soi for lunch — dazzling, surreal, sometimes gloriously over-the-top.
Then came the trip highlight – a 3 day, 2 night trek in the remote jungle. Our guide Che collected us in a songtaew and whisked us off to the trail head. He was endlessly entertaining, carving cups, rings, instruments and walking poles from bamboo while teaching us about jungle plants.
We passed local farms, a herd of water buffalo, and a lot of rabid dogs. The puppies followed us for a considerable way until we asked Che to chase them off. Although we aren’t dog lovers we weren’t at all happy when he started throwing stones at them!
Lunch was a real highlight – pre-prepared stir-fried noodles wrapped in banana leaf and a sticky rice, red bean paste item for dessert. So good!
We arrived in Akha village late afternoon and headed for our home stay with the hill tribe people. Now Lee Ann and I have done ‘rustic’ a couple of times on our travels but this was next level. Our rooms were down a steep, wonky set of bamboo steps, perched upon a far from level platform. The beds were made of bamboo and the ‘ensuite’ was a concrete room with a manual flush loo (ie put the water in yourself) and a hose bolted to the wall. We showered and settled in to our new surroundings, awaiting the call for dinner.
Che took us into the kitchen of the house and showed us how the family prepared their food – over an open fire in the corner of a very busy room that hadn’t seen a duster in about two decades. Shaun got stuck into the home brew black sesame whisky which looked and smelled a little like sherry.
After dinner we were offered a massage for 200 bhat (about £5) which seemed too good an offer to refuse. A couple of masseuses were summoned from the village so we all had one each. We were led to the ‘spa’ – another bamboo construction with a series of brightly coloured low-rise beds covered in individual mosquito nets. The ladies chatted away to each other in Thai during the process, probably comparing notes on us, and later exclaimed how big my calves were. The whole thing felt rather surreal and it took me a few minutes to stop giggling and to get in the massage zone.
After a breakfast of rice and egg we hit the trails again, heading out of the village and deep into the pineapple fields. We arrived at a gorgeous secluded waterfall where Shaun and I couldn’t resist a quick dip. It was refreshingly cold and a lot of fun trying to swim against the current to reach the foot of the waterfall.
If we were impressed by lunch the previous day, today’s was off the scale. A BBQ in the jungle where everything was made from, you guessed it, bamboo. The sticky rice was steamed in the bamboo tube, separate to some egg, and pork was skewered between two lengths of bamboo. Our table cloth was made from a giant banana leaf and everything served straight on it. We ate with a small utensil that had been carved from bamboo. A truly unique experience and utterly fascinating watching the guides prepare this beautiful meal for us in the middle of the jungle.
All fuelled up, we then summited Doi Bo, the highest peak in the area at just under 1000m. We we treated to uninterrupted views over Chiang Rai with big Buddha from the previous day clearly dominating the skyline. Our digs that night were located a little way down the mountain. Another bamboo construction but this time completely remote and our rooms were domed tents pitched upon a slightly more stable bamboo platform. After a quick shower we settled in to watch the sunset and the city below us began to twinkle. Che prepared more delicious food, then we played Uno as the stars came out.
We bedded down for the night on the cold, hard bamboo, with only a couple of blankets for padding / warmth. We all drifted off surprisingly easily only for Lee Ann to be awakened by the noise a a dog licking its sensitive areas right by our tent. In an attempt to scare it off she felt coughing was the best option but that only made it growl at us. We shifted to the other end of the tiny tent, sat holding hands, starting at the silhouette of the growling mutt. Another cough set if off even more so we shouted on Shaun, pulling him from his slumber, to rescue us damsels in distress.
The rest of the night passed uneventfully. We were amazed by the light from the moon illuminating the whole campsite when we braved a middle of the night pee. We awoke just before first light and were awestruck when we unzipped the sodden tent flaps and to see the first streak of red against the navy sky as the sun approached the horizon.
We were completely mesmerised watching the light across the landscape change and took a communal intake of breath when the fiery red sun first appeared over the mountains. We drank tea from our bamboo cups, fully immersed in the truly incredible moment. And to think Lee Ann wanted to cancel the camping bit of the trip!
After a breakfast of broth with rice, we began our journey back to civilisation. Walking through the rice fields, then visited a hot spring bath, before checking into our eco retreat for a well deserved slice of luxury. I cannot tell you how good it was to have a soft bed, real pillow, and crisp white sheets. And that was only after 2 nights of roughing it!
We enjoyed some pool time, made some plans for Chiang Mai, then visited a local temple first thing in the morning before our 4 hour bus journey to our last destination.
Chiang Mai: Culture, Chaos & Coconut Soup
Chiang Mai was our grand finale — six full days of culture, nature, food, and memorable experiences.
Day 1 – Night Market Immersion
We arrived late afternoon, dropped our bags, and headed straight out for food. After some delicious curry we hit the night market in search of dessert. Street food stalls sizzled, fruit shake blenders whirred, and we wandered happily, soaking up the atmosphere.
Day 2 – Sticky Waterfalls & Scenic Wandering
We hired a private songthaew for the day and bounced our way to Bua Tong “Sticky” Waterfall. Climbing straight up cascading limestone rocks felt like nature’s StairMaster — surreal and brilliant fun. Another temple stop on the way back… followed by Lee Ann and I falling asleep in the back of the truck like overtired toddlers.
Day 3 – Coconut Market & Monk’s Trail
The morning was spent at a local coconut market sampling coconut pancakes, coffee and suki in a beautiful Coconut grove. Then the Monk’s Trail hike through jungle to Wat Pha Lat and onward to Doi Suthep. What sounded like a gentle woodland walk turned into a sweaty uphill graft. Worth it though — jungle temples draped in vines, waterfalls, and that peaceful, hidden-world feeling.
Day 4 – Thai Cookery School
A standout day. We visited a local market to learn about ingredients before cooking multiple dishes from scratch. My favourite was Tom Kha coconut soup — creamy, fragrant, tangy perfection. I’ll be chasing that flavour forever. The Khao Soi was rather good too. Definitely need to attempt some of the recipes at home.
Day 5 – Doi Inthanon National Park
Waterfalls, forest trails, King and Queen pagodas, and Thailand’s highest point — which, amusingly, looks more like a misty woodland car park than a summit. Still, the cloud-wrapped mountains and mossy nature trail were beautiful.
Day 6 – Massage by Ex-prisoners
Thailand is famed for its massages. Seeking something a little different, we decided to head for the Women’s Massage Centre by Ex-prisoners. Shaun and I ended up in a couples room while Lee Ann went solo, much to all our amusement. The massages were genuinely excellent and the programme supports rehabilitation and future employment — a memorable, positive final activity.
What an outstanding way to end our year of travels. Can't believe it's taken me 20 years to return to Thailand. It certainly won't be leaving it another 20 until our next visit.
Khawp khun Kha, Thailand - you will forever hold a special place in our hearts.
Sabbatical Thoughts & Reflections
- Island life vs lockdowns – it struck me that there’s a fair number of similarities with remote island life and the Covid lockdowns – life at a slow, deliberate pace, no time-commitments, getting inventive with your daily workouts, virtual catch ups with friends, and best of all going bra-less and living in the same loose comfy clothes for days on end. I remember liking the simplicity of life in lockdown, all social pressures lifted, and appreciating the joy of not having to rush.
- Need for routine – I’ve always known I’m a creature of habit but I didn’t appreciate just how much I crave routine. Being able to prioritise my health & fitness is so important to me and my sanity
- Speaking English – Having English as our native language is a privilege we rarely think about. Navigating language barriers can be awkward and challenging, and it’s a reminder of how much easier global travel is for us compared to many others.
- Caledonia is Calling – this is the first leg of the trip we’ve experienced waves of mild homesickness. In part we are eager to get back and get on with our next chapter but then we are equally wanting to make the most of the time we have left. Wanderlust and homesickness can co-exist.
Final Thoughts
And so our year of unconstrained adventure comes to an end. I don’t think we’ve fully processed everything we’ve experienced this year but I do know we are calmer, happier, and more relaxed and we go home with a greater clarity on what our ideal life looks like. I return to work with a refreshed perspective and a determination to prioritise my health and wellbeing over everything else.
I’ve referred to my sabbatical plan periodically and am content with how everything has panned out. One goal was to spent some time upskilling for future career moves but I replaced that with broadening and deepening my understanding of financial independence and building a set of resources that will help us achieve our desire to retire early. Life is short and tomorrow isn’t promised - being wealthy to us means having the freedom to live life on our terms every single day.
My advice to anyone thinking of taking a sabbatical? Just do it! Take that leap of faith. There’s a huge world out there waiting to be discovered. The world is wide, perspective is priceless, and the soul needs feeding just as much as the bank account.
Thank you for following our journey. More to come on our YouTube channel after I edit 4 months of hiking footage....
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